UPGRADE Forget your food court burrito bowl. This new Norwest Mexican spot is playing a different game.
BY: Kartya Vucetic
AUTHOR: MARIE-ANTOINETTE ISSA
It’s no secret that all things Mexico (or Meh-he-co if you want to be that person) are having a bit of a moment in Sydney right now, but Angelica is making a convincing case for looking beyond your go-to GYG burrito bowl.
The new Norwest Quarter restaurant comes from Jeff Lee, the restaurateur behind Glebe institution Baja Cantina. It’s a polished, 100-seat space with local artwork by Pia Murphy and a menu centred on handmade tortillas, slow-cooked meats and modern Mexican flavours that every “authentic” Mexican venue with a sombrero on the wall could only dream of.
As always, your best bet is to start with the guacamole, served in a mortar and alarmingly easy to finish before anything else has time to arrive. The tuna tostada is yet another standout, pairing ruby tuna with smoky salsa macha, while the corn ribs come loaded with chili, cheese and chipotle mayo. If you’re into seafood, you also can’t look past the torres de mariscos mixed octopus, prawn and scallop ceviche. We’d tell you to pace yourselves, but easier said than done.
Get a load of this | Image: Supplied, Trent van der Jagt
As for the main menu, the house-made tortillas do much of the heavy lifting. Think MBS4 wagyu fajitas, beef birria tacos and Baja fish tacos, plus a beer-battered cauliflower number that doesn’t make your vego friend feel like they’re being punished for the sake of it.
And if you’re feeling adventurous, have a go at ordering the duck mole. It steps in to prove that Mexican food is far more than just tacos and tequila, and that duck and chocolate do, in fact, go together. Is it a chaotic pitch? Yes. Does it work? Absolutely.
Yes, duck and chocolate do go together | Image: Supplied, Trent van der Jagt
Finally, because we aren’t personal fans of the whole self-control thing, dessert is also a must. Our picks are the tres leches with salted caramel and strawberries. And, the churros, which keep things classic with cinnamon sugar, chocolate sauce, and the iconic “I’ll just have one” lie.
Basically, if your current Mexican food experience begins and ends with a fast food chain burrito, Angelica has arrived to help expand your horizons. Politely. With one of their many margaritas on hand. So if you’ve been waiting for an excuse to make the trek down the M4, consider this your sign. Just bring stretchy pants, because the tacos at Angelica are not here to play.
